how to create a large 3d printer using a smaller 3d printer - \"project locus\"

by:INDUSTRIAL-MAN     2019-09-18
From people who have 3D printers to those who are just curious about their abilities, one topic that often comes up is the idea of \"printing another 3D printer.
Now, when considering components such as electronics, this may not be 100% possible, however, almost every 3D printer in today\'s open source community uses 3D printing components to some extent.
From the fan stand to the spool stand, one can take a few minutes to search the network and possibly find the right design on one\'s own printer.
It turns out to be very useful, especially for those who like to make, modify and design machines themselves.
At the end of last year, my roommate and I sat halfway on the Prusa ii machine.
Knowing that we will not live together in the coming school year, we are facing a dilemma that I will call \"who will keep the printer \".
In view of this situation, I put forward an idea.
If we can agree on the value of the printer, I will accept half of the current resale value and use it for building a new printer.
The deal was made under the condition that we continue to share the printer for the remaining 3 months of the lease.
It took only 3 months to make the printer from scratch, and it was time to start grinding;
Do a lot of research, crazy design, and more importantly, crazy printing.
My main goal for the printer is :-$600 budget -
Cubic feet of building volume as close as possible
Accuracy equal to or better than Prusa ii-
The Bowden extruder setting can remove weight from the transport area, thereby increasing speed, reducing the quality of movement, and possibly increasing accuracy
Once I stepped into the market for ordering parts, I began to realize that it would not be like making a printer similar to Prusa.
Although my budget is a little small (College students)
The overwhelming drive to build and create makes me think harder.
Two main costs of the printer (
Have other options)
It is aluminum profile and hot bed.
After looking at the homemade hot bed, I think the price difference is very small and it is not worth the time, effort and risk.
Aluminum profiles will make this more interesting.
To build a simple cube that matches the build volume I want, while also allowing space for component installation, I\'m going to spend at least $100 (USD).
It\'s just a rough idea and I think I need to create solid corners and overall rigid frames for this somewhat large printer.
That\'s when I started trying to make PLA extrusion frames that are cheaper, cost effective, proof of concept, printed.
The printer is not named throughout the design and build process, more because I\'m not sure exactly what it looks like. The \"P. L.
In some parts, the project track is represented \"(
And my initials).
The mathematical definition of the trajectory is as follows;
Curves or other figures formed by all points of a particular equation that satisfies the relationship between coordinates, or by points, lines or surfaces that move according to conditions defined by mathematics, or other figures. \" -
Source: Dictionary. reference. com-------------------------------------------------------------
This printer works using a belt wiring technique more formally known as \"core XY.
In addition to my way, there are other ways to use this technology in the system, but for people who use this technology, the main problem is how the belt will cross at a certain point (
Only one belt though).
If you are interested in learning more about core XY, you can visit a small and useful website here: I will do my best to be as thorough as possible in terms of assembly and details, however, suppose the person to build this printer (s)
The overall skill level involved is at least at a medium level.
Basic power tools may be needed (
Drill bits, Angle Mills, etc. for cutting and chamfer threaded rods).
I have included a number of pictures and CAD illustrations to help with the assembly process, which will be key elements for a successful build.
The ability to explain the information provided and the simple trouble shooting skills will prove convenient.
The main hardware used includes 10-
24 machine screws, need to be cut manually into length (
It takes a few seconds for each screw)
Use standard cutting machine with machine bolt cutting function.
Depending on the quality of the tool, these tools can be found at the hardware store for $5 to $25.
Considering that there are a lot of bolts to be cut, I would suggest buying a bolt at least in the middle of the production line.
The work was done by cutting the bolts and I found that better tools are unlikely to leave a rough edge at the end of the bolt thread.
Q: I will print these parts on my current printer, how big can it print even with the largest parts?
A: All printed parts used on this printer are created using a prusa ii style machine with a build volume of 185mm x 85mm (x,y,z).
Vertical printing of wearing parts, 80mm high per piece.
I usually print 6 at a time.
* Please note * how many-to write-
Ups, can add further modifications and additional details at any time to make it better.
With time permitting, I will continue to work hard and do my best to modify the list and overall information.
There are a lot of things to cover, please take advantage of these pictures and illustrations as I believe they provide the best guide.
I highly recommend that you read the entire guide first and then download/take notes as you go.
Before starting the build process, there may be some small details that are better obtained by thoroughly reading.
It\'s time to buy some parts, and of course print some parts, print more parts, and finally print more parts. (I will post .
Stl files on pages related to parts being assembled).
I have done a lot of brainstorming and sketches in class (whoops)
I decided to use regular parts and build the printer around them.
Here is the list of parts to start.
I will try to list everything here, but I may forget something.
Each step also contains details about the hardware. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------(5)
Car ()2 for X-
Y motion, 1 extruder, Z-2axis)-E3D V6 Hot End-
5mm-hole, 17-tooth GT2 pulley.
These will be used on X-Y motors-
Bowden Tube 1. 75mm filament (2mm I. D. , 4mm O. D. ).
I suggest buying at least a few feet and cutting a piece. Ramps 1. 4 / Mega 2560 (
This will be the main control board for the printer)-(3)Endstops (X,Y,Z).
The parts designed on this printer are used for optical end gear. -(13)608 Bearings-(4)
624 bearing of belt tensioning device located in X-Y belt path-
GT2 belt, I suggest to buy a 2 m roll and cut after installation.
You can use it most of the time. -
You need a 8mm light slide (8)pieces in (457. 2mm)lengths.
4 Z axis (heatbed guides)
, 4 of the top XY assembly. -8mm x 1.
25 rebar, you need (2)pieces in (457. 2mm)length.
These will be as Z-
Shaft \"lifting screw \". -
With SD (
Optional but recommended. )
Allows you to run the printer without a computer dedicated to the printer.
I used the 12864 LCD that came with ramp 1.
4 and endstop kit. -
Computer PSU for 12 v power supply (
My Diablotek 475 W died soon).
I recommend Sentey 725 W.
Alternatively, you can purchase a 12VDC power supply that does not need to be configured. -
12x12 \"hot bed with hot bed relay (
Hot beds only need about 20 am ps)-(3)
If the fan is cooled using an additional fan \"bridging\" and/or an external hot bed relay, 40mm fans, 1 for hotend and 2 for ramps;
Buy 5/4 fans instead of 3. -(11)
LM8UU bearings, 3 for hotend/x-axis, 4 for y-axis, 4 for z-axis-10-
Screws for 24 countersunk machines.
Unless you can find a size of about 6mm, you will need to manually cut these into length (0. 25\" in length).
I suggest 1-
3 \"length and manually cut the screw into length using a wire stripping/bolt cutter.
Please see the picture of the Bolt style and tool I am referring. -5/16\"-
18 screw bars, see the \"assembly frame\" step for length-5/16\" washers -
Buy a bag of 100-5/16\"-18 hex nuts (
Usually you can buy 100 bags for a few dollars and I will buy two bags to start. )-1/4\"-
20 screw bars, see the \"assembly frame\" step for length-1/4\" washers (Buy a bag of 50)-1/4\"-
20 hex nuts, buy a bag of 50-(2)
5mm to 8mm coupling for z-connection
8mm threaded rod shaft type compact 17 motor-
3D printer for printing parts, or external printing services such as 3D Hubs. -(5)
If you print the part yourself, the wire shaft of the PLA filament. -ABS filament (
In PLA, it is strongly recommended to print only the hotend part, and it is strongly recommended to use the hot bed part but not required). -
You can find 12 \"x 12\" Cork sheets in hardware store or office supplies store to see where the bulletin board is selling. -Hot bed screws (3mm x 35mm)
Supporting gasket (12)and (4)3mm nuts. -
Hot Springs (
Things like 7mm O. D.
About 20mm in length
These things will be placed under the corner of the hot bed. -
Spring at Z-for hot bed frame assembly connectionaxis.
These should be about 30mm long, 9-
Inner diameter 10mm.
The diameter of the coil part is about 1mm (Very standard).
These will be installed in z-
Shaft threaded rod holder for holding pre-tightening of up and down 8mm nuts. -
Super glue that fits the surface between the extruded parts of the frame-
LED wiring, get 4 wire rolls, you should use 15 or 20 feet rolls. This runs ~$10. -
8 and 6 machine screws with a length of 1 \"and 1/2 \".
100 pack for each size bolt with matching washers and nuts.
I bought two small machine screws of the same breed for $5, which included these sizes. -11. 75\" x 11.
75 \"x 1/8\" glass sheets for hot beds-
Kapton tape 12 \"x 12\" pieces (
Optional for hot beds)-
Adhesive clamps for hot beds, these will fix the glass and Cork at the bottom of the hot bed.
The binder I am referring to can be found in any office supplies store. -
Large compression spring that helps keep the hotend wiring and the bowden tube from X-Y Gantry. (
About 1 \"in diameter, 1 feet in length). ------------------------------
It is important to note that, depending on the available hardware, it is mainly all of these components I listed as 5/16 bar, and 8mm hardware can be used if it is cheaper/more preferred (
X-frame support with cross shaft Bolt
Y gantry bearing bolts, etc).
The reason I use 5/16 is due to supply restrictions and the price will vary a lot if I order 8mm hardware and rebar bars online. ------------------------------
To save money, I decided to print parts like frame extrusion.
However, this clearly has a direct impact on PLA usage.
This is where the foam is filled.
If you wish, of course you can print all of these parts in 100% fill, or, you can print in a similar way as I did.
The foam I use can be found from several hardware stores I noticed.
It is usually used as a crack sealant/gap filler, and its expansion and overall hardness are quite good when curing.
One thing to note is the flammable warning label.
This means that I do not recommend using this method on any part exposed to high temperatures (
Mainly hot end and hot bed).
I \'ve included a photo of the foam I picked, and when I built the entire printer I was able to get through with only two cans, which cost me $5 in total.
Attach as an image file the parts to be printed, the length of the rod to be cut, and the recommended filler and a list of whether to fill with foam.
This is your page if you choose to do bubble filling.
My overall idea for this is to drill holes in the parts once printed, making sure that once assembled, no matter where I drill holes will be hidden.
This is easy, and one general pattern to note is that the bracket that matches the frame usually has a flat surface.
Given that there are usually at least two types of parts on the printer, I will drill holes on the \"back (
Surface mounting plane)
Fill with foam and clamp the parts together in some way.
I\'m using 2mm-
3mm bit depending on the part.
Extrusion is the only place where you want a smaller bit because you will drill to the end of the extrusion.
Together with the foam, use a 1/4 threaded rod through the extrusion center.
The foam adds a lot of stiffness to the strip, while the rebar holds the piece together.
In addition to simply keeping the extrusion segments together, the rebar is in a compressed state.
This further strengthens the components and increases the overall strength of the printer when operated correctly.
* I would like to mention that this foam should be used in the well
Ventilation area, very sticky, hard to wash hands.
In other words, I suggest putting on some sort of latex glove when doing this **-------------------------------------
For the extrusion, I bought a cheap wood clip from the hardware store and can do 12 at a time.
If you haven\'t cut the 1/4 bar yet, don\'t.
To keep the clip compressed while keeping the squeeze beautiful and straight, I ran 1/4 in the center.
Once the foam dries in a day, you can easily remove the part from this Rod and use it again to fill in more extrusion and eventually fill the finished product. Wahh-
Tools and end products (score! ).
Because I bought a 3ft length rod, I stacked 12 (
12*80mm high = 960mm long = 37. 795\").
This is important because when clamping the rod should not stretch out the end, you want the force to be only on the extrusion, and the function of holding the rod is to simply keep the inner extrusion hole concentric.
As shown in the figure, you can use more 1/4 \"bars, which are clamped on the outside to help prevent bending during extrusion.
* Alternative to wood fixtures (
For extrusion)
It is to pass the 1/4 \"rod through the center to ensure that the rod length is longer than the extrusion total stack length, place a gasket and a nut on each side, and tighten.
These don\'t need to be too tight, snug will do.
Depending on your fill percentage, there is a risk of breaking them under too much force.
** I drilled 4 holes for the foam on one side of each extrusion.
Then I will inject a small amount, wait, inject more.
Once you have done a little experiment, you will feel about it.
The idea is to drill all 4 holes on one side, so that when matching curing, the foam has no other place to go except to expand inside, and increase the rigidity of the part.
With so much extrusion to do, each with 4 holes, this is a good excuse to make a simple tool to improve the efficiency of the process. --------------------------------------
Special filling nozzle for manufacturing nozzles (
Optional but saves quite a bit of time), Download.
Stl files and compilations as shown (
Super glue I use).
Special nozzle as 4-way separator;
Simply connect the injection straws contained in the tank to the inlet of the nozzle, match the extrusion and fill with foam.
I would suggest creating a few nozzles as the foam can be difficult to clean up and reuse on another day, which is said under the assumption that you are not filling all the extrusion at the same time.
The parts needed to print and make a nozzle are :-(1)foamfillertool. stl-(1)foamfinenozzle. stl-(4)foamfiltertab.
From what I noticed, the foam I used can be found in several hardware stores.
It is usually used as a crack sealant/gap filler, and its expansion and overall hardness are quite good when curing.
One thing to note is the flammable warning label.
This means that I do not recommend using this method on any part exposed to high temperatures (
Mainly hot end and hot bed).
This is the foam I picked, I only used two cans when building the entire printer, which made me spend a total of $5 on these two cans.
Now that you have printed your extrusion and your 1/4 screw bar is cut into length, it\'s time to assemble the frame. -
To create a basic cube structure, you need to make 12 on the side of the frame.
Each frame (6)
Section of extruded profiles.
6 pieces including (4)
Of the \"Extrusion_Main\" film (2)
Works of \"Extrusion_w_insert.
Please refer to the pictures included in this step to make sure the parts are sorted correctly. -
If you use the foam in the extrusion, now is the time to clean up any residual foam before putting these pieces together.
Alternatively, you can use an electric washing machine once assembled (
Very good). -
To create a side you need a 1/4 screw bar, two washers and two 1/4 nuts.
You also need some kind of wrench, pliers or socket to tighten the above hardware.
For the standard 1/4 nut you need a 7/16 sleeve or wrench. -
First, place the nuts and washers as shown at one end of the rod.
The NUT should have threaded joints, but the closer the end the better.
Now, start stacking the squeeze.
I would recommend putting a thin layer of super glue between the two segments as you continue to add the strip.
This not only helps to enhance the strength of both sides, but more importantly, it helps to ensure that the two sides maintain cooperation.
Each other is flat. -
Once you stack all 6 in the right order (see picture)
, Put the other 1/4 washers and nuts on the free end.
Now tighten the nut until it is pressed. -
Place the assembly on a flat surface and tighten both nuts at the same time.
If you can keep the assembly on the surface so that the part does not twist when tightening the nut, it will help.
These nuts should not be much more than \"comfortable.
If you happen to have a high fill % used on the nut piece, you can tighten the nut a little.
It is important to note that excessive tightening of these main inner rods will not only crack and squeeze, but also lead to bending of the section.
That\'s why I suggest you tighten the nut to \"comfortable\" and then open 1/2 extra at each end. -----------------------------------------
Once all the edges are finished, the corners are assembled.
As shown in the figure, the corner parts are assembled together and designed to work with 10-24 x 0.
75 \"countersunk screws. You will need (9)
Screws and nuts in each corner, if you want, you can fix the frame part more with the inner hole provided. -
External slots will be used on the top gantry, so it is important not to use these holes at the top corner. --------------------------------------
The purpose of \"extrusion of missing blocks\",k.
An extrusion_w_insert.
Stl is an easy way to provide nut insertion when installing any assembly.
Even if you have fully assembled the printer, you may just need to remove one or two things to put the nut in the frame wherever you need it. -------------------------------------
The picture above shows the assembly of each component.
Please pay attention to the cross section view of the frame and bracket assembly.
These extrusion works in a similar way to traditional frame extrusion, but the cost of a single machine thread nut is much lower than the dedicated plug-in for aluminum extrusion. -----------------------------------
The file named \"alumex _ midsp cer_8mm\" will be in z-
Shaft horizontal rod support.
One of them is required on each side, and for the entire printer Assembly, two parts are required in total.
The Hotend compartment consists of two main components (.
Provide stl file.
The main stand holds all bearings and holds half of the stand.
When fully assembled, hotend is actually \"sandwiched\" between two and a half.
The belt clip is used in total in this conference (4)
[Gt2 _ belt_clamp] piece.
There is also room to install a 40mm fan and use a convenient zipper that is consistent with the bolt holes. --------------------------------
The hardware required for these components is :-(3)LM8UU Bearings-(4)
Zipper, 40mm fan mount-(2)10-
24 countersunk head machine screws, one for each nut.
These are the two lower \"sandwich\" bolts that hold the housing together. -(2)
8x1 \"machine screw, one for each nut.
The above are two semi-bolts with upper cover. -(8)
6x1/2 \"machine screw, one for each nut.
These screws are used for belt clamps located at the top of the Assembly.
Hotend (previous step)
Will be placed in this sub-assembly called X-Y Gantry.
A useful image of the belt wiring associated with the belt crossover can also be found in this step. -------------------------------------
The belt tensioning device allows to remove the slack from the top belt as the use of the Spring-style belt tensioning device will not work.
The standard \"Spring-style\" tensioning device will not work because of the total distance the belt moves through its maximum movement.
Tension device requirements (2)
There are 624 bearings on each side, totaling (4)624 bearings.
The screws used are 8x1 \"screws, total (8)
6 washers per tension. -
A gasket between the bolt head and the bracket-
A gasket between the NUT and the bracket-
There are two washers on both sides of the stacked bearing to ensure that the bearing rotates freely without being stuck by the bracket itself. -----------------------------------------
Belt cross bracket requirements :-(4)
608 bearings, will be stacked in a manner similar to the belt tensioning device.
However, only one gasket will be placed on the outside end of the outermost side of each bearing. -(2)
5/16 \"or 8mm bolts, 2. 5\" long. -(8)
5/16 \"or 8mm washers in total-(2)
Nuts 5/16 or 8mm--------------------------------------------
Connect the hotend to the GT2 belt :-(4)
GT2 belt clip-(4)
Screw 6x1/2-(4)6 hex nuts------------------------------------------
For Y motion, the side slip block will run on the 8mm light slide bar and request :-(2)
LM8UU bearing fastened with zipper tie belt ,(per side)-(2)5/16\" x 2.
5 \"bolts, hardware (
Nuts and washers)-(2)
608 bearings on the belt-(4)
These are basically cone washers.
As shown in the figure, they are mounted above and below the bearing. -(1)Two-
608 hole gasket parts above the bearing----------------------------------------
Front Corner (Multi Brackets)
Install several components.
These are installed to the corner and contain the components and are explained in the picture.
As shown in the figure, the rear bracket is installed and only 8mm light slide rod is clamped. -(2)608 bearings (per side)-(4)
Belt guide gasket(1)two-
Wash plate-(1)bearing tower (
These are related to edges, and each angle bracket)-(2)5/16\" x 2.
5 \"bolts and hardware, these as bearing shafts-(5)10-
24 machine screws cut by length for clamping 8mm bars and fixing the bracket on the frame.
One of the mounting holes the screws will pass through is located under the position where the bearing tower will be installed. ---------------------------------------
The \"Bowden _ tube _ riser\" section is designed to provide you with a place to connect the bowden tube to the hotend cabling.
When used with some looms and large compression springs (
It seems effective about 1 \"long 1 ft in diameter)
, This will prevent the bowden tube and wiring harness from interfering with X-
Y gantry throughout the printing process. ---------------------------------------
\"Briddingfanmount.
Stl \"is optional, but as it improves overall printing capability (
Especially bridging).
The installation is shown in the image and no additional hardware is required except for the fan.
The stand features a standard 40mm CPU fan.
To connect it to the ramp, you need to connect the positive and negative lines to the respective D9 connector positions.
From there, the speed and overall utilization of the fan can be controlled using board and slice software. The X-
As shown in the above figure, Y motor is installed.
Stl files are also included.
These need to be printed with support, and the suggested fill percentage can be found in the table found in the previous step.
The motor used is the standard compact 17 motor, which is fixed on the bracket using M3 hardware through the first 4 mounting holes. -
I recommend that these motors use a 17-tooth GT2 pulley, but it is not necessary.
Larger gears will allow faster X
Y moves and the position accuracy is reduced.
A 17-tooth pulley seems to work well on this printer. The Z-
The shaft assembly is quite simple and you need the following parts (per side):-(1)
Coupling 5mm to 8mm-(1)Nema 17 Motor-(1)
Lower Z motor mounting bracket with bracket mounting hardware-(1)
Upper Z motor mounting bracket with bracket and motor mounting hardware-(1)8mm x 457.
Threaded rod 2mm(2)8mm x 457. 2mm smooth rod-(4)
\"Z_axis_8mm_clamp. stl\" brackets-(26)10-
24 machine screws (
Including the components required to install the component to the frame)-(2)
\"Z_axis_crossbar_brace90. stl\"-(4)
\"Z_axis_crossbar_brace_flat. stl\"-z-
Assembled shaft bar (
The 1/4 \"screw bar is included to pass through the center and is fixed using the extrusion of the nut profile built into both ends. )-(1)
\"Z_axis_bearing_guide.
Stl \", holds 608 bearings to ensure that 8mm rebar bars are relative to z-motor.
There are two such spaces on each side (
2 on each side)
However, if only 1 is used on each side, the minimum at the top. -(1)
608 bearings, you may need 2 if you choose to use the two z _ axis_bear _ guides discussed above ,--------------
Since the initial release of this article, I have-
Motor bucket.
So if you download these by chance, the update is a little bit better. The Upper Z-
The motor mounting pieces are now slotted to help align the motor vertically, and the lower mounting pieces are now flush on the table.
Update: 10/18/2015: The other part of the modification now is part of the Hot Bed installation system, and I have slightly strengthened the LM8UU bearing bracket (
Although this is not important)
, More importantly, I have modified the bracket to accommodate two LM8UU bearings (versus 1).
In addition to these two changes, I also narrowed the width of the bracket to increase the gap between the weight of the bed weight distribution system and added an installation position for the small bubble level in each corner.
So having said that, I would suggest printing the new revised bracket with two bearings per bracket.
The new bracket is \"hb_dual_lm8u_bracke_mirrored \".
Stl \"and\" hb_dual_lm8u_bracket. stl\".
You need to print two.
The bubble level is optional but looks cool (
Of course, there is a purpose. . -
As shown in the figure, the hot bed and components are assembled.
For the quantity required for each component, see the attached table.
There are also (3)
5/16 rebar segments will also be used in this step.
The hardware used in the hot bed installation system \"frame\" is completely composed of 10-
Screws for 24 countersunk machines. -
The extrusion used includes (8)
Pieces of \"squeeze.
In this Assembly, there is no threaded rod through the center of the extrusion. -
The wearing parts are assembled in the manner shown, where the \"nut block\" end, the outer part are facing outside, and the inner part is facing inside.
Please refer to the illustrations provided. -
Heatbed is a fixed use (4)
M3 x 35mm screws with three washers at each corner and a nut at the bottom to secure the bolts.
The spring is placed between the bed and the bracket.
I recommend using a spring, which is about 20mm in size when compressed. -
The outer angle of the hot bed system is the bracket that holds the LM8UU bearing.
These bearings should be in Z-
Shaft steps, once the hot bed is placed inside the main printer Assembly, should be fixed in place using two small zippers. -
Spring at Z-for hot bed frame assembly connectionaxis.
These should be about 30mm long, 9-
Inner diameter 10mm.
The diameter of the coil part is about 1mm (Very standard).
These will be installed in z-
Shaft threaded rod holder for holding pre-tightening of up and down 8mm nuts. -------------------------------------
To help heat insulation on the surface of the bed, I would suggest placing a cork on the lower side of the bed (
Cut corners to clear 12 \"x 12\" pieces of the spring).
Although the cork has a high heat resistance, a sheet of kapton tape glued to the top of the cork will improve safety, while further improving the thermal deflection up. -------------------------------------
The hot bed should cover the right printed surface.
I suggest buying a piece of glass (
Usually buy $2 to $3 from a glass-cut hardware shop)
Size is 11. 75\" x 11. 75\" x 1/8\".
This is not the reason for the 12 \"x 12\" because the corner bolt holes are occupied and you will want the glass to be laid flat on the hot bed.
The glass is connected using a traditional office binder, and the effect is very good. ----------------------------------
If using an external hot bed relay similar to the one I use, I recommend installing it as shown in the attached mounting bracket file \"hot bed _ lay_mount. stl\".
This allows you to install the hot bed relay remotely and keep it cool using a 40mm fan.
The fan can be connected directly to 12 v so that the relay is the fan if the printer is turned on-cooled.
The mounting bracket also ensures the contact below
Side and short circuit insulation of relay (
Let\'s say you print this bracket with some kind of plastic).
No additional hardware is required except for the fan and a few zippers.
This bracket works with a lower 1/4 crossbar, which is also used to install ramp plates and PSU.
Please see the picture and in the attachment.
If you choose to go this route, the stl file. -
This step of the assembly is dedicated to frame support, which will be a key part of the reinforcement frame.
I would not recommend skipping to make these because they are cheap to make and add a lot of overall strength to the frame. -
I have included the length of the rod and a picture of the instructions for the assembly process. -
The first bracket shown (
One of the four without any text in the picture)
, There are two different pole lengths associated with it.
Length is 210mm and 255mm.
The longer length bracket will be placed on the front of the printer assembly and on the lower side of the frame on the back. -
These are very simple, please see the picture and pole length included when assembling. The .
Stl files are also included.
Update: I have modified the spool bracket for a simpler design.
I save the original design file here if you like.
The original is generally more fancy.
However, if the filament is replaced regularly, the new design will be better than it.
After using my new Rostock Max V2 printer, I made the second reel stand version (
Where is the design inspiration).
For the new version, you still need to use the same two bars at 45 degrees angle and need 10-
24 counterhead bolts used elsewhere in the printer.
The length can be anywhere from 1 \"to 1.
Let it work.
In terms of printed parts, the second edition uses the two printed parts seen in the photo. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Assembly of the wire shaft bracket is quite direct, and the picture will illustrate most of the required content.
The following is required for sliding seat Assembly :-(2)
608 bearing, used in the \"taper\" gasket of the tapered wire shaft. -(10)
Nuts and washers-5/16(2)
5/16 \"threaded rod, cut to 215mm (8. 46\")
, For the installation of the frame of the wire shaft bracket-(1)
5/16 \"threaded rod, cut to 170mm (6. 69\")
, Used for wire shaft support shaft.
Don\'t be afraid to cut this one a little longer, the longer length will help to change the design of the wire shaft from different suppliers. The wire shaft bracket is mounted on the back of the frame.
Once assembled, the line shaft should be able to rotate freely on the bearing.
It is OK to tighten all these nut fingers only, and it is also a bit beneficial.
This allows some freedom of movement when positioning the spool and spool to install the assembly.
The extruder assembly shown has a simple
Access to the filament section near the motor area.
This helps to load new filaments.
The bracket is also built in-
In the filament guiding device, prevent the filament from deviating from the path.
This is another feature of a unique Bowden tube clamping system.
The Bowden tube is secured in the bracket using \"bowdentubeclamp. stl file.
The parts and hardware required for this assembly are :-(1)608 bearing-(1)Nema 17 Motor-(1)
Bowden bearing me. D. reducer (. stl file)-(3)10-24 x 1.
5 \"the screws of the sinking machine.
Two for the spring fixture, one for the lower pivot arm Bolt. -(2)
Small spring for 10 people
24 springs are listed above.
These are used to provide compression between the rolling gear/filament/bearing, and can also provide a little forgiveness if needed or in case of blockage. -(1)5mm I. D.
The roller gear that will be installed on the compact 17 motor used-(4)washers for 10-24 screws-(3)10-24 nuts-(2)
6x1/2 \"machine screw with a 6 nut per screw-(1)
8x1 \"machine screw for bearing shaft.
This works with bearing I. d.
Reducer, effectively let you run one with 4mm I ~ Bolts of 8mm. d. bearing (608). -(2)
Gasket for 8 bolts, and (2)8 nuts.
As shown in the figure, the endpoint will be installed in the location.
Endstop brackets are used for optical endstop as they are included in many ramp electronic kits (
What I bought, and many other things I saw). -----------------
Extend the disadvantages of wiresA to having such a large printer because the wiring of electronic components is often too short to be properly routed.
Fortunately, some standard 4-
Wire LED wire and soldering iron, this is not a problem that needs to be overcome.
I suggest extending these wires once the component location is physically defined.
In other words, it is very beneficial to have a 20ft length 4-wire LED line on hand, and to measure and cut the wire while maintaining any motor or end stop position.
This allows you to decide how to wire, and how much is required for a variety of wires.
Just like any welding and extension wires, I strongly recommend using heat shrinkage around each individual solder joint, which will help prevent any accidental short circuit between the nearby wires and connections. ---------------------
The wires that need to be extended and wired are :-The two X-
Y motor at the top and back of the frame (4 wires each)-
X, Y and Z enstop (3 wires each)-
Hotd wiring (
2 wires, use at least 16 spec wires for this)-
Hotend fan (2 wires)-
Thermal resistor Hotend (2 wires)-
Hot Bed Power Cord (
2 lines, at least 14 gauge lines here.
Only need to extend ~ 1ft)-
Heat bed thermal resistor wire (2 wires)
If you decide to use the ATX power supply for your desktop computer, you will need to make some simple modifications in order for it to work properly on the printer.
These modifications should be at your own risk and note that they may void the manufacturer\'s warranty on the power supply. 1. )
Find the green one (power on)
Place the wire in the main 20/24-pin harness and place the jumper or paper clip from that wire to any black (ground)wire.
This is the wire in the standard computer, telling the PSU to start and power up by the button located in front of the computer chassis. 2. )
Find the yellow one (12v +)
Wire, Black (ground)wires.
Now cut 6 of them near the connector end so you have enough wires to use.
Then, peel off the wire insulation of several millimeters to reveal the wire core.
That\'s it. you will have a full mumbo-
After that, a lot of wires decided how to deal with it.
I chose to tie all the wires, including the main harness with jumper installed, neatly together with a zipper. --------------------------------
The wires will be connected as follows :-
One socket on the ramp plate has 2 yellow
Other outlets on the ramp board have 2 yellow
One socket on the ramp plate has 2 floors
2 floors of other outlets on the ramp-
Hot Bed relay 2 yellow-
Hot Bed relay 2 ground------------------------------------
The use of the ATX power supply in 12 v applications has been described in detail many times in elseware.
If you are not familiar with it, I suggest you search the guide, but the details I provide cover the basics of achieving this on a 3D printer.
Due to the nature of the ramp wiring, I recommend using one of the many detailed guides online.
The process is simple and has been covered by elseware many times.
I provide a \"true feelings table\" that I generated to exclude the error actions in the corxy implementation running Marin firmware.
The \"connector flip\" category refers to the special way I connected the motor at that time.
I should note again that the chart has a pattern, but the direction I assign to \"flip\" or \"not flip\" may be different from your direction.
For reference only, the chart made at the time, I signed the left and right motor connectors as the opening end connectors at the time of \"turning (
You can see the side of the pin through the side)
, Facing the radiator of the stepping motor. --------------------------------------------
The LCD component used is the one I included in the ramp kit I ordered from eBay.
The LCD model is 12864.
The LCD case is printed in two parts.
This allows you to hide the wires in the box and extend them from the back to the ramp.
Two and a half can be tied together with a zipper (
This is what I did)
Alternatively, you can also use the m3 x 50mm hardware in four holes.
A total of 8 spacers were used on the screen to place it firmly inside the enclosure.
The \"LCD _ case_space _ big\" Spacer will be located between the main stand and the back of the LCD screen (
Housing).
The \"LCD _ case_space _ small\" Spacer is located between the front of the front LCD housing assembly and the front of the LCD screen itself. ----------------------------------------------
The switch used is eBay\'s simple 3-wire 12vdc switch.
These are easy to find and can be purchased for a set of 4 for less than $5.
There are three switches installed in the housing and I would suggest putting all three switches together and then deciding how to use them.
Some ideas are LED lighting for bed fans, bridging fans and printers.
If a 12 \"x 12\" hot bed with a ramp plate is used, a hot bed relay is required.
This size hot bed attracts too much current for the ramp plate.
Don\'t worry, though. The line is really good.
Ideas behind the relay (in general)
You are using a lighter working circuit, \"flip switch\" on a larger circuit \".
That being said, we will apply it to the hot bed.
The hot beds used here attract about 20-
24 am ps at startup.
The safe way to handle this is to connect the ramp heating bed output line to the heating bed relay input line.
In the traditional setting, this will be the ramp that powers the hot bed itself.
However, in our example here, the ramp plate is just \"flip switch\" inside the relay, which in turn will power the hot bed.
The power supply for the hot bed will come directly from the power supply.
The power supply is connected to the relay, heatbed.
When the ramp plate provides power, the hot bed relay will bridge the gap and connect the hot bed directly to the power supply. . . .
Cool, right?
Depending on where you buy the hot bed and relay, the wiring connection name may vary.
While the idea of the overall functionality remains the same, it is better to follow the instructions or consult the manufacturer to ensure the correct cabling. -------------------------------------
Use \"lower frame crossbar\" with 1/4 rebar \"(and hardware)
Where electronic equipment such as power supply and slope plate is allowed to be installed.
Please see attached picture for installation illustration. ---------------------------------LED Lighting (optional)Required parts :-
12 vdc led lights, found on eBay for about $5 per pair.
These lights are usually used as fog lights on cars, about 170mm x 15mm x 3mm. -(1)
\"LED _ Mount _ base. stl\"-(1)\"led_mount_sec. stl\"-(1)
8x1 \"machine bolts-(1)8 nut-(2)
8 washerthe installation is very simple, you can see the installation picture and Assembly picture in the attached photo.
For cabling, I choose to use one of the switches (
Second from the top, next to the LCD).
I connect to the power supply through this switch.
Due to the large size of the hot bed and the large installation system, z-motors.
Not only do we try to save the motor, but we are in Z-
Motor, which may be a potential way to end some \"z-
Swing in your fingerprints.
Thankfully, Camry cars are very tough, but we will take the pressure off their mission by adding some counters
Weight components.
The use of the counterweight system is certainly not a new technology.
This type of system is used for other mechanical equipment such as elevators and suspension bridges. ----------------------------------
I was able to weigh my bed, mounting bracket, glass etc (
All components that cause the weight of the motor to drop)
And proposed about 5. 5 lbs total.
To offset the weight on the motor, the counter-
The weight system is designed. ---------------------------------
The parts needed for this system are :-(8)
18 \"long, 1/8\" smooth steel bars (
Cheap hardware works well)-
14 \"1/4\" car brake line, you need (8)
Cut into 1 piece. 74\" lengths (44. 2mm)-
36 steel plates are cut into the dimensions provided in the drawings, which are used as weight.
I also included.
What kind of stl file should the weighing board look like after it is completed.
This would be a good template if drilling manually. -(16)
\"Bed_lift_cablecamp. stl\"-(4)
\"Bed_lift_pullmount. stl\"-(4)
Bed _ guide to life. stl\"-(4)
Weight and housing of the bed. stl\"-(4)
The weight of the bed. stl\"-(4)
\"Bed_lift_pulley. stl\"-(4)
Zipper, these will be used to attach the pulley mount to the frame holder through the bottom hole in the bracket, thus curing the pulley mounting system. -(4)624 bearings-(8)
8x1 screw with washer and nut.
These are used on the weightblock to keep the wire and pulley bearing shafts in place.
I recommend adding an 8 washers so that you can install the washers on the inside of the bracket between the bearing and the inside surface of the bracket.
This will prevent the bearing from rubbing on the bracket. -
You need at least 12 feet wires.
I suggest buying transparent plastic.
Steel cables with a more seamless look.
The fishing line can also do this, but the clamping method of holding the line (
And support each weight box)
Better work with a good surface clip. -(32)
6x1/2 \"screws with washers and nuts.
They are used with the guide flange bracket and provide clamping force on the steel guide rail. -(8)10-
24 counterhead machine screws with nuts for fixing the pulley holder on the frame--------------------------1. )
Assemble the weight box ,-
Cut and drill your steel weight plate (
I suggest going to the local plasma cutting service.
Or buy a 1 \"wide 0 stick. 179\" thick (7 gauge)
From there.
Alternatively, you can fill the boxes with a lot of small steel washers and wrap them as tightly as you can --
Install the brake line part.
Both the exterior and the top of the box have grooves to help keep the brake line aligned, as well as the holes through which the steel bar passes. -----------------------------------------
Mounting alignment Rod (1/8 \"steel bars)-
This step is very simple. follow the picture and you should be able to go.
All hardware involved in the clamping rod is 6 hardware. -
I suggest installing the box at this time and not connecting the hanging cable at the end of the box for the time being. ------------------------------------
Important precautions regarding the installation of hanging cables.
The suspended cable passes through the center hole of the weight box.
Starting from here, it is important to wire strategically to maximize friction and minimize the clamping force required for screw and gasket assemblies.
The holes on the left and right side of the center \"clamping screw\" shown in the picture are located at the bottom of the box for wiring purposes.
I would suggest going the cable up through one side, under the washing machine, down through another hole, going back under another washing machine, then plugging the cable, or cutting the excess length. -
The same cable winding technology is also suitable for clips mounted on the bed. --------------------------------
Set cable length-
In order to adapt to the difference in the size of the wire suspension, different cable routes, etc. , it is necessary to cut the cable to the correct length.
To do this, I suggest the following :-
Install all stand and hardware from the printer-
Wiring the cable through the pulley assembly and fixing the pulley assembly on the frame using a zipper of two screw holes and bottom holes (
Should match your frame support)-
Put your hot bed at home (highest)position. -
Hanging weight boxes as low as possible (
Something without it rest)
, And use the cable routing technology discussed for security protection. -
I have attached a picture of how I can determine the position of the rod in the bracket.
Please note how I installed the components temporarily on the outside of the frame, which makes it easier to install inside the printer guide rail.
While using the cable, it is also beneficial to use something to keep the weight box open (
So it is slack, I used a 2 \"clip as shown in the figure). ----------------------
Finally, it is critical to ensure the smooth operation of the weight assembly, and when it passes through the minimum and maximum positions, it does not interfere with or impact the hot bed components.
This is an important quick check to prevent the possibility of any component hanging during the printing process greater than 5 (
When considering the height of the weighted box, about half of the z motion).
Please note how this system works in the picture I disconnect Z-
Shaft motor of 8mm screw bar.
As you can see, there is no support for the bed except for the counterweight.
This is a visual aid that helps to understand how this system really helps.
This also makes it easier to remove components such as 8mm threaded bars. Congrats!
You have created the first \"Project track\" printer build.
Now it\'s time to show your larger 3d print printer and give more meaning behind the idea of self-copying the machine!
This printer is not only a proof of concept, you can create a printer of this size while using printed parts, which is also a good display work for the development of additive manufacturing, it is also a supplement to the rapid prototyping industry!
Printing, thinkers, tinkers, manufacturers, manufacturers and others!
I\'m looking forward to seeing what people will create for this newly released printer!
I hope you all like this building, happy print!
Thank you for coming and reading! -Pat L. P. S.
I have also attached a video so you can really see the capabilities of this printer to date.
Please keep in mind that I just finished this project in May 2015 so I\'m sure it will be faster! .
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