The mold is recorded in this guide A half-year art project was conducted between Andrew kuttmeyer and Madeline Schwarzman. This part of the guide teaches you how to quickly create silicone and polyurethane molds in the wild and replicate natural plant forms of glowing, UV-sensitive leaves collected from around the world. I\'m not funny all the time. (or less-) The destructive way of capturing forms in nature. I am also interested in doing this in a mobile, very cheap way. This guide will let you know how to recreate 2-and 3- Shape with incredible quality and very cheap size. Hope to see how we make our large interactive artwork Will help you with an art or science project! We managed to capture plants of all forms from other places, such as the other half of the artwork, including arranging all the leaves on the robot -- Modified dry cleaners controlled by a special length- RFID reader. You can see the full details of how to do this here: you want to learn more ( Especially in philosophy/art) About this artwork, there is more of a part of Madeline Schwarzman\'s See Yourselfx) Ist \"exhibition, you can see the manual here: in many places! Go find em! The more you look for them, the more you start to notice all the different leaves around you! You got the leaves\" Eyes \", when you walk around and suddenly stop to see a really cool leaf, suddenly start to annoy your friends ( Or even start taking your silicone out and the mold is there! )! There are many ways to make high quality molds, and they all have their own advantages and disadvantages. Need to re-make the mold Usable and flexible ( So that we can safely remove very thin, fragile and delicate castings). This means that plaster and other hard materials are not good for us. For our project, we want to create at least 100 unique molds. A lot of molds will be big. This is cast using conventional silica gel ( Like you\'re from Smooth-On) Considerable cost-prohibitive. We also want something that we can do directly in this field. In the end, we decided to adopt a cheap silicone caulking technique (like ) In addition to using acrylic paint as a catalyst. An overview of cheap theory We have a lot of potential ways to make our molds and positive things (or casts) This project. It depends on our goals and requirements. Ideally, we would make a lot of money if we had an unlimited budget. High quality platinum curing silicone (like “smooth-on” sells). Something like their \"body double\" silicone or silicone putter would be great as you can work with your hands and it has release agent (oil) It\'s inside. Smooth on also has a silicone called \"rebound ( They bounced back with a \"bounce\"®A leaf of 25 silica gel). Overall, smooth on has great documentation. They also have hotlines and you can call them and ask them questions. The downside is that these things can be expensive. Something like 30 cm diameter lilypad could cost $40 on a silicone mold (and some time) Not all molds are good. High quality silicone like smooth on is quite expensive in the rest of the world (like 1. 5- 2 times more expensive). Silicone molds are generally good because they are easy to re-process Available and flexible to convert materials in odd shapes ( Compared to rigid gypsum casting). Nothing really sticks to silicone ( Other than silicone) So you don\'t have to worry about publishing agents (as much). Every mold you make will have its own features and challenges. Some parts have odd gaps, or highlight parts that are difficult to pull the model back from the mold. Also, if we make a lot of different molds for many different things that we find, it can quickly become expensive. In addition, if we were to make a lot of these leaves, we would also have problems with time and manpower to mix and model all of these things. High quality impression of cheap molding materials and molding materials ( Can you even do modeling in the wild? ) Fast Manufacturing (cheap casting materials) Or at least it\'s easy to make/set it up and forget it) Casting smooth casting 326 smooth-mold material toolon GLOW WORM (GREEN) Vacuum chamber is not required (e. g. )Relief - This is the main type of mold I \'ve been doing, and this is where we get about half an object. Half of the object can even have a proper depth, but half is always flat ( When we pour the resin into the mold and expose it to the air, side). This is a very good and simple way to do a lot, very flatish things. One drawback is that casting As I have been doing, we will pour the epoxy into our release mold. Works well for flat things. However, the 3D curve in the leaves can become a bit strange, because the part immersed in it will be thicker than the part where the leaves are placed in the mold in a flat way. On the positive side, you can pour things in and have it set up. Casting - In theory, in order to make our mold more interesting and 3D, we can spray it on the mold. Then we can make a normal relief mold and then bend our silicone mold in any shape we want ( Like they did in concert tutorials. ). Unfortunately, the cost of spray casting is about 800- We can start at $1000. Casting - Drum casting/hollow casting/shaking casting/hula casting/shaking it if your wall is big enough on the edge of the leaves you can put a little bit of resin and stir it for about 10 minutes, until it sets. This makes the distribution of the resin more uniform and helps to ensure that there are no thick spots and that less material is used. The downside is that shaking these things around consumes more manpower and you need to build high walls around your release device to make sure it doesn\'t spill everywhere. Here is a video example of a person doing this. 3D - A part squats the silicone around the object to make sure there are no air holes. Determine which part of your object will be \"top\" when you pour the material \". Make a little big hole there, pour the resin into it and make some walls ( Or a funnel) Shape to help pour things into it. Make another small \"vent\" inside to help pour the material into it and let the air escape. When it heals, you cut in a bit with a razor until you can pull out the object. 3D- Two parts you model the object in half with a thick mold, where you can also make extra grooves and shapes ( As alignment hole). Then you have that cure mold the other half of the mold on it. I\'m not sure if this will work for something very thin like our leaves. If you are really good, you may not need the lab anymore! You can go directly to nature and fall directly from the tree! Just carry something with you and you\'re settled! After you explore nature early and are good at molding, it is time to enter the industrial age. We only have a few months left to make 1000 leaves, so we have to move quickly and efficiently. Take some tables and cover them with paper and foil to protect them from spills and arrange your leaf mold so you can mix and dump. In addition to the fancy \"platinum curing silicone\", LOTOur silicone molds can cast most of the material. Both epoxy and polyurethane are great! You might want to spray a thin layer of oil (like pam) Put in the mold, if the mold continues to stick to the casting, then brush it off with a brush. I \'ve been using Smooth- Cast 326 \"liquid plastic. ” Smooth- It\'s not too expensive to sell this. It has a pot life of 7 minutes and can be cured in 45 minutes. 60 mins. You can find other versions of smooth casting in a shorter or longer time. To get the best I mixed Part B with some glowing powder ( Bright green luminous powder is the best, brightest and most active because it highlights the details of your leaves and you want a very low wavelength ( Below 400nm, like 390nm). This reduces the amount of white light emitted by the light and makes the light source no longer distracting. The lights we found to work best are these: some of the glowing powders we used are these: hanging leaves you also need to find materials that don\'t shine. Some types of nets are too weak or give out bright light ( They are clear even in normal light). Some zippers and some hot glue will also emit fluorescence, so be careful if you don\'t want these aspects to suddenly cause a lot of attention. The net we used came from: two small holes were drilled, and they were connected to the curtains by a very thin zip tie through the leaves. We have to do a lot of experiments on different types of luminous powder and different types of lighting. You can put wires and fiber into the mold directly. I made some capacitive touch. Sensors with embedded LEDs are cool! They lit up when you approached!