From 3D to Reality - Making a Resin Sculpture From a CG Character

by:INDUSTRIAL-MAN     2019-09-29
There are all kinds of software that one can choose to use-
Each has its own strengths, weaknesses, and workflow.
There are some very good free software as well as some expensive software packages.
For those of you who are interested, I suggest you look at programs like Wings3D, Sculptris, Blender3D, and many of the programs listed on this page: free modeling software.
Check out the print services you plan to use for details of how they want your model to be prepared.
Because my original model is from the line-
Based on the app, I definitely have to do more cleanup than people starting with polygons
Based on the app, but never-the-
You have to make sure that your model is very good --
Avoid being rejected by your printing service.
In general, your model needs to be \"waterproof\" and has \"thickness\" everywhere \".
While you don\'t need to make a continuous mesh, you need at least a completely closed intersection volume.
Where you may have a cloth or a thin surface-
Like clothes, curtains
Or as far as I\'m concerned, feathers
You need to \"thickness\" these parts of the model so they can be printed out.
You will also need to make sure that any thin item meets the minimum thickness required for the printing service, otherwise the result may be too fragile to actually use.
Please also keep in mind that many service fees are charged by the amount of materials used during the printing process --
So taking the time to make your model into some thickness instead of a thick hollow shell can save printing costsbut again -
Consult your print service for what they charge and how to optimize your model.
Because I want a final product that is larger than the available print (
In the case of 3 DArttoPart, 8 \"x 10 \"))-
I plan on making molds-
I split my model into logical parts and made sure that all of them fit into print volumes.
I did this to make sure I didn\'t have to pay * 2 * for getting the size I wanted.
While this is an interesting packaging experiment, it is actually unnecessary; ).
When deciding where to break the model, it is important to remember the mold manufacturing process-
Be careful not to have aggressive draft angles or mold traps on the main part.
While it is true that almost any shape can be formed, one can consider some minor issues in advance in order to make life easier in terms of molds --
Production and casting process.
Some great tools-
But not really needed: pressure/casting container (
In this case, a large paint can was purchased on eBay)
Vacuum pump that can reach a very high vacuum level (eBay again)
Air compressor (
Pressurize the casting chamber)
Vacuum chamber for de-
Inflatable silicone (
I have the Na gene 5305. 1212)
And a cheap toaster oven (
You are not used for food)
Used to heat clay and post
Curing of silicone mold (not necessary -
Just speeding up the process). So, why de-
Fill your silicone and press your resin?
Pressure casting produces better results than \"gravity casting\" or atmospheric pressure casting.
Molds with fine details will almost certainly create bubbles in castings
Due to air retention, surface tension problems or moisture in the mold (
Resin water = foam).
Pressure casting (
80PSI in my case)
Basically, the \"crushed\" foam has almost nothing --
Or a much smaller size than when it was not available.
Of course, the same phenomenon (
Crush bubbles)
Can also work on your mold
Therefore, if there are bubbles under the surface of your Mold\'s internal contact, these bubbles will be \"crushed\" and raised on the surface of the casting --so -
If you want to cast your resin under pressure, you need to have bubbles
There are free molds.
If you\'re under no pressure
Casting parts, can skip the compressor and pressure cooker.
If you want to use mom
Mold system, or some thinviscosity mold-
Production of silicone (
Not durable but easier to use)
Then you can do it without vacuum chamber and vacuum pump.
Your choice depends on your ultimate goal and what you are willing to endure in exchange for your time and money (
Is this not the case with everything? )
3d printing service of my choice (3DArttoPart)
Print the model using a powder/adhesive system.
While this may be the cheapest in 3D technology, the surface it leaves is not ideal for pulling the mold or drawing. Think \"100-
\"You have a good idea of what it looks like.
If you want to spend more money, you can get a smoother model to work and it would be a perfectly reasonable argument to say that the extra money is worth it.
To smooth the surface to the level I wanted, I quickly realized that it would not work to polish the printed surface --
The surface is too hard, inconsistent
So I have to figure something else out.
The technology I use is that I use 2-
Laquer polishing and sealing machine 3 layers (
Light polishing between coatings)
Then the rattle.
Can be filled with primer (not sealer)
And a series of processes such as sanding, chasing details, starting, sanding, chasing details until I am satisfied with the surface. Dupli-
Color brand filler
Primer seems to be the best for me
Most of the other brands I \'ve tried are too sticky. Epoxy-
Base on filler primer will be ideal
Great building and super
Easy to Polish features
But a little expensive ($20/can).
Once your surface is smooth, it\'s time to fill the bottom and open ring, which can \"capture\" the mold, while also making it harder for the parts to be extracted from the mold.
You don\'t have to make these areas \"flush\", but it\'s a good idea to minimize them without affecting the design.
You also want to add some small details and details to the print.
For example, the area on the model that uses a bump map, you have to recreate that detail with clay (
Epoxy engraving in my case)or hard wax.
This is also a stage where you can cover part of the mating surface with clay and press it on the corresponding part of the model to create a \"key \", in this way, when the model is assembled, it will be perfectly combined.
Model preparation is important.
Keep in mind that the surface quality of the casting will never be better than the surface quality of the \"main\" object --
So, take some time in the preparation steps.
As I mentioned in my last step, adding details is something you need to do unless your model contains all the details.
In the CG render version, I use a bump map to \"fake\" the details and I have to use clay (a note here -
When I say \"clay\" I mean epoxy engraving).
Now, a problem arises: how do you make a real thin (1/32\")
Carved layer of epoxy resin (clay)
The thickness of its surface * consistent *?
Try to do this manually (
Apply it around until the thickness is even)
Far beyond my skill level or patience.
So I came up with a very simple way: roll the clay out like a pie --
Then stick it to the model.
Then the question becomes \"how do I prevent clay from sticking to my rolling pin? (
In my case, a piece of PVC pipe)
I found that if I put the clay between two wax sheets I could roll it out and peel it off one side and use the other side as a applicator
It works very well.
Remember a tip: Don\'t start carving and adding details immediately once applied --
The clay is so soft that it will soon become a paste.
What you want to do is wait 25-
Until the clay starts to harden for 45 minutes, then start adding details.
Cover the clay with a thin layer of Vaseline so that any tool you use slides easily and does not stick to the clay
Continue to add details as needed.
Not much comment on these steps
Except for the legs, it is almost the same as the trunk.
Any other details will be included in the subtitles. . . . .
Skulls, wings, and swords may be the more tricky parts to cast --
Complex shapes (skull)or thin.
I have to do some extra parts to fit the wings on the skull as the CG version does not have the inconvenience like \"Gravity\" and in this case there is actually something that needs to be connected to prevent falling off. . . sheesh.
To improve casting efficiency, small parts in the mold are gathered together.
The pictures cover most of the painting process.
There\'s nothing to say except the combination I use acrylic (mostly)
And some laquer (
Mainly as a seal and \"dull coat \")
Application Technology span-
Spray gun from kitchen sponge to colored pencil-
No matter what works :)
It\'s a big job, but I learned a lot.
Thank you for taking the time to read this beast-
I hope you like it and I hope you can find something useful in it.
Pressure casting compared to gravity casting
Advantages, disadvantages and some problems encountered. . . .
This is an attempt to make an overall block mold for the head.
This doesn\'t work very well because not only is the part removed like opening the bear trap (
The silicone of this mold is too hard)
, It made a rough dividing line along the back of the head that was difficult to clean up.
The final mold is separate from the front. to-
Return a parting line along the seam on the side. . . .
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